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Interesting Articles

The Chronicle Wine Selections Argentine Malbec
Lynne Char Bennett

Friday, January 2, 2009
This article appeared on page F - 6 of the San Francisco Chronicle

Malbec, one of the six red Bordeaux grape varieties, has come into its own in Argentina. It is usually used as a blending grape, except in Argentina and the Cahors region in southern France, where it is vinified as a stand-alone varietal. The grape, which now has 22 recognized clones in Argentina, came by way of Cahors. The Argentine clones produce smaller clusters with thinner skins resulting in sweeter tannins than that of Cahors fruit.


Between 1990 and 2006, Argentina's Malbec plantings increased 133 percent. Today, Mendoza - Argentina's most renowned winegrowing district - leads the way with 83 percent of the country's Malbec vineyards.

Argentine Malbec, with its rich, dark fruit and relatively soft tannins, is sharing the stage with New World Merlot as an accessible, easy-to-taste wine, though there are many "serious" Malbecs with complexity and structure to age. Some of those wines are being produced by renowned winemakers - California's Paul Hobbs and Bordeaux's Michel Rolland - who are consulting and making wine alongside the Chilean wine giant Montes.

In 2007, Argentina exported almost 51 million liters of Malbec valued at $160 million, $50 million of which went to the United States, Argentina's most important market.

As the quality of Argentine Malbec has increased, so have the prices, which are slowly creeping higher, with some flagship bottlings commanding triple digits. Production costs in Argentina remain relatively reasonable, so there are definitely values to be had. We've found several and hope you enjoy them as much as we did.

Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2007 Altos Las Hormigas Mendoza Malbec ($14) Tuscan winemaker Alberto Antonini and Antonio Morescalchi founded this winery in 1995. Sexy, complex nose of tarry blackberry, rich espresso, chocolate and violet with background hints of loam and smoke. Accessible flavors of anise, blackberry and ash on a midweight palate. Integrated oak provides some grip on the finish. Very good value. (Importer: Vin Divino)

Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2005 Añoro Mendoza Malbec ($25) Aromas of spiced licorice with sweet black cherry highlights carry to a balanced palate. Plum and cassis flavors with moderate, slightly dry tannins on the finish. A sturdy, solid wine. (Importer: Añoro Wine Co.)

Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2005 Belasco de Baquedano Llama Old Vine Lujan de Cuyo Malbec ($15) The llama is a symbol of Mendoza as much as the Malbec grape. This wine has lots of plum and blueberry with fennel and thyme plus roast meat and mushroom undertones. Dense cherry and savory, juicy fruit finish. (Importer: Cabernet Corp.)

Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2006 Cobos Bramare Marchiori Vineyard Mendoza Malbec ($80) Nothing is subtle about Paul Hobbs' wines for fans of the big, powerful, very ripe, oaky style. Deep, intense espresso, mocha, char and ripe berry segue to cocoa, blackberry jam and grippy tannins. (Importer: Paul Hobbs Imports)

Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2006 Cobos Marchiori Vineyard Perdriel Malbec ($175) Paul Hobbs, known for his California Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, made his first Argentine Malbec in 1999. This is his flagship bottling from vines more than 80 years old. An almost brooding nose of tar, espresso, green peppercorn and dark berry with a touch of coconut. Weighty palate of black fruit flavors, with plum skin and balancing acidity on the intense, lengthy finish. Needs time to develop. (Importer: Paul Hobbs Imports)

Rating: THREE STARS 2006 Colomé Valle Calchaqui Malbec ($26) Founded in 1831, Bodega Colome is one of Argentina's oldest wineries and is now part of the Hess Collection winery. Extremely ripe fruit that remains fresh and lively. Blackberry pie, tangy blueberry and black licorice with a touch of green olive plus a Port-like undertone. Finishes with lingering spice and moderate grip. Includes 8 percent Tannat and 7 percent Cabernet Sauvignon. (Importer: Hess Collection)

Rating: TWO STARS 2007 Crios de Susana Balbo Mendoza Malbec ($15) Susana Balbo named this wine Crios, which means "offspring" or "children" in Spanish, to reflect its price and youthful nature. Chocolate, spice, herb and smoky meat note on the nose. Bigger on the palate with an intense fruity entry, nice spice and espresso. (Importer: Vine Connections)

Rating: THREE STARS 2006 Dante Robino Mendoza Malbec ($13) Involving aromas of toast, tar, smoke and loam wrapped around sweet, dark fruit; some caramel flits about the end. Bright, racy palate that has concentration and tart acidity. Great structure and balance. A showgirl of a wine from Lujan de Cuyo vineyard fruit that is aged 3 months in oak barrels. Great value. (Importer: Tri Star Marketing)


Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2006 Familia Schroeder Saurus Patagonia Malbec ($19) Dense, spicy nose with hints of eucalyptus. Sweet-savory palate has some complexity with herb, sweet ripe red raspberry and smooth, almost soft tannins. A complete wine that will show well with food or on its own. (Importer: S Selections)

Rating: TWO STARS 2006 Fantelli Mendoza Malbec ($10) Cool nose of blueberry muffin, mocha smoothie and an herbal hint with pretty floral lacings. Smoky palate offers waves of charred beef, dried salted plum, black cherry and fresh herb. A balanced effort that was aged in stainless steel. (Importer: Kensington Distributors)

Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2006 Felipe Rutini Mendoza Malbec ($19) From Bodega la Rural in the La Consulta district, this wine is from 50-year-old vines planted at 3,000 feet. Raspberry, tart wild berry and hints of earth with sweet red and black fruit that is pleasantly rich without becoming heavy. Remains fresh and vibrant with pinpoint balance. (Importer: Pasternak Wine Imports)

2.5 Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2007 Finca el Origen Reserva Valle de Uco Malbec ($12) Blackberry juice, fresh huckleberry and spice surround stony soil and loam notes with good structure and balance. Shows promise of improvement. Fruit for this wine is from the La Esperanza vineyard located at the foot of the Andes mountains. Aged 9 months in French oak. (Importer: Carolina Wine Brands)

Rating: TWO STARS 2007 Flechas de los Andes Argentina Gran Malbec ($27) Nuanced, almost elegant nose of lavender, blue fruit, vanilla and earthy underpinnings. Strong, fruity entry with nice vanilla and berry milkshake, creamy texture and cocoa overtones; less intense midpalate. (Importer: Royal Wine)

Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2007 Kaiken Mendoza Malbec ($14) Montes, one of Chile's largest wineries, set up shop in Argentina as Kaiken, focusing on quality grapes instead of investing in land. Bittersweet chocolate, caramel and oaky toast backing fresh fruit and spice. A bit shy and closed, this young wine is not a fruit bomb, but has the potential to open up with time. (Importer: TGIC Importers)

Rating: TWO STARS 2004 Ksana Gran Reserva Mendoza Malbec ($63) Assertive cinnamon oil, clove and peat moss aromas plus a malty carob back note. Big, fleshy palate of boysenberry and clove with zippy acidity and cinnamon stick on the finish. (Importer: Epic Wines)

Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2006 La Posta Pizzella Family Vineyard Mendoza Malbec ($18) La posta, or the tavern, is where many growers go to enjoy their wines. This bottling is from the La Consulta vineyards of Paula and Pablo Pizzella. Deep, complex aromas and flavors but still easy drinking. Berry, pepper, celery seed, green olive and hint of loam with clove and nutmeg-spiced bittersweet chocolate on the finish. (Importer: Vine Connections)

Rating: TWO STARS 2007 Layer Cake Mendoza Malbec ($16) This is the first vintage of Argentine Malbec for Hundred Acre winery's Jason Woodbridge. Not a fully typical expression of the grape, this bottling is slightly rustic with aromas of menthol, spiced huckleberry pie and loamy beets. Good mouthfeel, with refreshing backbone of acidity. Used Hundred Acre barrels exported to Argentina are used to ferment 20 percent of the production. (Importer: Vintage Point)

Rating: TWO STARS 2005 Luigi Bosca Gala 1 Mendoza Malbec ($40) Straightforward nose of sweet raspberry and rose water with a hint of chocolate. Palate is bigger than expected; rich and bold but may need some time. Made with fruit from three estate vineyards and aged 14 months in new French oak barrels. Includes 10 percent Petit Verdot and 5 percent Tannat. (Importer: Gaucho Imports)

Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2005 Magdalena Toso 40 Barrels Las Barrancas Vineyards Mendoza Malbec ($105) Big, weighty and lively, this bottling shows the touch of consulting winemaker Paul Hobbs. Black raspberry, dark chocolate and plenty of oak spice with floral high notes. Fruity depth builds toward the long fresh, balanced finish. Includes about 10 percent Cabernet Sauvignon. (Importer: TGIC Importers)

Rating: TWO STARS 2006 Mapema Mendoza Malbec ($20) This is the fifth vintage of winemakers Pepe Galante and Mariano Di Paola's collaboration, which shows ripe boysenberry, dried flower petals and bit of road tar. Deep, compelling and nicely balanced with integrated tannins and loamy finish; made in a lighter style. (Importer: Vine Connections)

Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2004 Nico by Luca Mendoza Malbec ($125) Laura Catena produces some very nice moderately priced Malbecs. This more expensive bottling is named after Catena's third child, Nico. Plenty of blueberry and dark fruit with mushroom notes. Bright and lifted with food-friendly acidity and good tannic structure. Aged 12 months in 100 percent new French oak barrels. Very limited. (Importer: Vine Connections)

Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2007 Bodega Renacer Punto Final Clasico Perdriel Malbec ($13) Opulent, exotic nose of Asian plum, spice and ripe blackberry that shows as nicely on the jammy blackberry, mocha palate with hints of star anise; good grip on the lengthy finish. Very good value from winemakers Alberto Antonini and Hecto Durigutti. (Importer: Winebow)

Rating: TWO STARS 2006 Ricardo Santos Las Madras Vineyard Mendoza Malbec ($18) Ricardo Santos, who formerly owned Bodega Norton, was the first Argentine winemaker to import Malbec to the United States more than 30 years ago. Violet, leafy blackberry overlays the bright red fruit accented with mocha and a touch of black licorice. Full-flavored, ripe and balanced; flashy without being over the top. (Importer: Global Vineyard Importers)

Rating: TWO STARS 2006 Tercos Mendoza Malbec ($12) Brothers Pedro and Patricio Santos - sons of Ricardo Santos, an early Argentine winemaker - named their winery Tercos, Spanish for "stubborn." This second vintage has a shy, cool berry-juice nose with ripe, cinnamon-tinged fruit flavors and hint of tangerine peel on the finish. Straightforward and easy drinking. (Importer: Global Vineyard Importers)

Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2005 Trapiche Single Vineyard Vina Eleodoro Aciar Perdriel Malbec ($47) Chief winemaker Daniel Pi bottles each harvest's best three Malbecs for his single-vineyard bottlings. This vineyard's fruit produced intense aromas and flavors - deep milk chocolate, spice, pencil lead and kalamata olive with cedar shadings; fresh plum, tobacco and earthen spice on the finish. Classy with great balance. (Importer: Frederick Wildman and Sons)

Rating: TWO STARS 2005 TriTono Mendoza Malbec ($40) Created in 2003, TriTono is a collaboration of New York restaurateur Joe Bastianich, California vintner Steve Clifton and Argentine winemaker Matias Mayol. Aromas of cinnamon spice, raspberry and dark plum plus intense fruit and layered loam meld nicely in this accessible, bigger-style wine. (Importer: Palmina)

Rating: TWO STARS 2007 Urban Uco Valle de Uco Malbec ($11) In 2000, the Ortega Gil-Fournier family founded a modern winery with 707 acres, then introduced Urban Uco wines a year later. A cool nose of brewer's yeast, chocolate and spice with notes of meadow. Very ripe fruit and touches of spice with a soft grip lingering on the finish. (Importer: Henry Wine Group)

Rating: TWO STARS 2007 Ventus Patagonia Malbec ($13) Shy nose opens to tempting spice, cola and blackberry syrup with touches of char and milk chocolate. Juicy, intense, fruit-driven palate. Some grip and moderate acidity helps balance the mouth-filling fruit. (Importer: Leucadia Cellars & Estates)

Panelists: Lynne Char Bennett, Chronicle staff writer/wine coordinator; Bryan Brick, buyer, K&L Wine Merchants. For more recommended wines, go to sfgate.com/wine.

Key: Rating: FOUR STARS Extraordinary | Rating: THREE STARS Excellent | Rating: TWO STARS Good

 

More Malbec Please
As quality improves for Argentina's signature grape, imports continue to increase
By James Molesworth
From Wine Spectator magazine, December 15, 2008 issue
 
American wine lovers know a good thing when they taste it, and they are increasingly enthusiastic about Argentina's plush and vivid Malbecs. Argentine vintners are responding by producing ever more, and ever better, wines.
 
Argentina exported 3.2 million cases of wine to the United States in 2007. That's still only about half of what neighboring Chile currently sends to the States annually, but the total represents a significant increase over the country's previous record of 2.6 million cases in 2006.

"Mendoza and Patagonia are two magic words these days for my customers," says Tom Gannon, sommelier at Rothmann's Steakhouse & Grill in New York, who notes that he's steadily selling more and more Argentine Malbec despite a wine list that's heavy in California Cabernet and Bordeaux.

Since my last report on Argentina ("Malbec Laps the Field," Dec. 15, 2007), I have reviewed more than 500 Argentine wines, the most in any year since I began covering the region for Wine Spectator in 2000. The boom in reviews mirrors the trend in imports to this country, as Argentina is rapidly gaining market share thanks to its agreeable, juicy, steak-friendly reds.

Quality is on the rise along with sales. Malbec remains the country's flagship variety and leads the way among its top bottlings. Overall, nearly 100 wines in this report—an impressive 20 percent of the total number—earned outstanding ratings (90 points or higher on the Wine Spectator 100-point scale). Of the more than 220 Malbec or Malbec-based blends under review, nearly 120 rated 88 or more points, with 70 of them hitting the outstanding mark. (An alphabetical list of all wines tasted for this report is available)

Argentine Malbec isn't without its hiccups, however. Some wines tend toward overripe or jammy flavors; others aim for extraction or lay on too much oak, thereby losing focus. The best versions simply let the grape do the talking, with a vivid range of raspberry, blueberry and boysenberry fruit intertwined with spice and graphite hints and backed by supple tannins and fresh acidity.

Many of the best Malbecs in this annual roundup come from the 2006 vintage—not an outstanding year overall, but one that featured cooler temperatures and a longer growing season that benefited this late-ripening grape.

The top-scoring wine this year is the Achával-Ferrer Malbec Mendoza Finca Altamira 2006 (96 points, $112). Since its debut 1999 vintage, this wine has established a track record as one of the country's greatest bottlings of pure Malbec. It shows a sleek, racy profile, with raspberry and graphite notes that sail on endlessly.

Finca Altamira is sourced from a vineyard in southern Mendoza's cooler Uco Valley, a region that is rapidly emerging as a serious rival to the warmer spots of central Mendoza. The winery also struck gold with its Malbec Mendoza Finca Mirador 2006 (95, $112), which is sourced from the Medrano area in the eastern part of the province, known for wines with darker profiles and more pungent minerality.

Joining these in the classic category (95 to 100 points) are the Alta Vista Alto Mendoza 2006 (95, $80) and the Bodega Noemía de Patagonia Río Negro Valley 2006 (95, $130). These wines represent Argentina's strong suit—rich, ripe, racy, full-throttle reds made from the Malbec grape that reflect distinctly different terroirs. (Some of the country's top bottlings are Malbec blends; the Alta Vista Alto contains 15 percent Cabernet Sauvignon.)

Other high-scorers include the Bodega Catena Zapata Malbec Mendoza Alta 2005 (93, $50), the Altos Las Hormigas Malbec Mendoza Vineyard Selection Reserva 2006 (92, $24) and the Trapiche Malbec Mendoza Viña Fausto Orellana 2005 (92, $50).

Recognized as the industry leader, Nicolás Catena excelled as usual this year, with nine outstanding bottlings from his flagship Catena Zapata winery. Catena also owns the Alamos and Bodegas Esmeralda wineries, which crank out solid values, such as the Alamos Malbec Mendoza Selección 2007 (90, $15) and the Alamos Malbec Mendoza 2007 (88, $10). Bodegas Escorihuela and Familia Rutini, of which he is part-owner, are consistent producers of very good wines, and Catena's joint-venture with Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite) regularly delivers outstanding bottlings as well, including the Bodegas Caro Mendoza 2006 (91, $50), the current release.

In Catena's case, the apple has not fallen far from the tree. His daughter Laura, with her Luca label, and his son Ernesto, with his Tikal, Bodegas Tahuan and Alma Negra labels, are also producing very good to outstanding wines.

Laura Catena's Malbecs offer further evidence of the potential of the Uco Valley. Her high-end offering, the Luca Malbec Altos de Mendoza Nico 2005 (94, $125), is sourced from two old-vine vineyards in the La Consulta region of Uco. As is typical of wines from this prime area, it's exotic, with intensely concentrated but remarkably creamy fig, raspberry, boysenberry and currant fruit, yet a nice bittersweet ganache twinge and a racy graphite underpinning on the finish helps keep it all honest. Meanwhile, her Luca Malbec Uco Valley 2007 (93, $35) shows the kind of bang for the buck that Argentina can deliver.

"I like the profile [of Uco Valley fruit] because of the violet aromatics and big tannins, which—if worked on correctly—can be as smooth as one likes," says Laura.

Winemaker Luis Reginato, who fashions the wines for both Laura and Ernesto Catena's labels—as well as for the superb, value-oriented La Posta del Viñatero winery—was born in La Consulta and has helped the Catenas seek out some of the area's best spots.

"Luján de Cuyo is a large district with very diverse areas and subareas," says Reginato about the better-known region of Mendoza. "But the Uco Valley is twice as large. So I would dare to say that the Uco is twice as diverse as Luján."

That diversity is created by vineyards at a range of altitudes, from 2,600 to 4,900 feet above sea level, a wider spread than in central Mendoza. As elevation changes, so does the effect of the area's cold nights, which offset the warm, sunny days by allowing the grapes to retain their acidity while extending the ripening period.

Argentine vintners, who have historically based themselves in central Mendoza, are only now plumbing the Uco Valley, homing in on spots like La Consulta, where some forgotten old-vine vineyards can still be found. Karim Mussi, a third-generation immigrant of Lebanese descent, decided to follow in his father's footsteps and enter the wine business. When he told his father of his plans, the older Mussi asked him where he wanted to grow vines.

"I told [my father] the best wines were made in Luján and Maipú," says Mussi, referring to the historical center of Mendoza wine production. "And then he gave me a nice hit upside the head before saying 'La Consulta.'"

Now, after working in the area for a few years, Mussi admits his father was right. "I like La Consulta because it's an old terroir, with history," he says. "But no one knows it, so at the same time, it's also new."

Mussi's Altocedro Malbec La Consulta Reserva 2006 (92, $30), which is sourced from a single 2.47-acre plot of 100-year-old Malbec vines, is one of the most exciting wines I tasted this past year. This pure fruit- and mineral-driven expression of Malbec was fashioned in a decrepit winery that Mussi is currently renovating by hand, with only one assistant. Other wineries in the area worth seeking out include Bodegas y Viñedos O. Fournier and Bodegas Salentein.

Along with the emergence of the Uco Valley this past year, Argentina's development is highlighted by several new or improving wineries. Alta Vista has finally settled in after a change in winemakers and extensive infrastructure renovations. The winery's lineup of single-vineyard Malbecs from the 2006 vintage is outstanding, highlighted by the Malbec Luján de Cuyo Alizarine 2006 (93, $50), sourced from the prime Las Compuertas vineyard. Owner Patrick d'Aulan and his new winemaker, Matthieu Grassin, have their hands firmly on the wheel.

Several new wineries also debuted this year, with excellent results. They include Ksana, made by winemaker Héctor Durigutti; Finca Las Divas, where California-based winemaker Paul Hobbs is consulting; and Inacayal, a separate line produced by winemaker Adriano Senetiner of Viniterra. Other changes on the scene include those at Viña Cobos, which has relabeled its varietal line as El Felino. The winery's El Felino Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Chardonnay all deliver solid value in the less-than-$20 range.

Malbec may be Argentina's star, but the country's wine industry is not a one-grape show. A cast of well-known blue-chip varieties, accompanied by a few Argentine specialties, makes up a large chunk of this report. Cabernet Sauvignon continues to show improvement, both in stand-alone versions and, increasingly, as a blending partner with Malbec.

"Cabernet is the frame, with its structure. [Along] with the fleshy, sweet fruit of Malbec, it's a great combination," says Roberto de la Mota, whose Bodega Mendel Unus Mendoza 2006 (93, $50) combines the two grapes to produce a tightly wound but racy wine that delivers a superripe core of blueberry, raspberry and fig fruit.

Syrah and Bonarda round out the top red varietals. The latter is the second most widely planted grape in Mendoza, after Malbec, and typically produces soft texture and forward, plummy flavors.

Among whites, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc are steady if uninspiring. A growing number of Argentine vintners are turning their focus to Torrontés, whose spicy, Muscat-like aromatics and tangy, fresh notes of tangerine, nectarine or clementine can offer a nice change of pace. Freshness is key, though, in delivering quality bottlings of Torrontés, as the grape is prone to oxidation and does not perform well in oak, gearing it toward wines for immediate consumption. The Bodega Colomé Torrontés Calchaquí Valley 2007 (87, $13) is one of the best examples to date of what this variety can achieve.

Though not as well-known a value producer as Chile, Argentina offers a large group of delicious bottlings that won't break the bank. There are nearly 150 wines in this report costing $20 or less that achieve very good quality (85 to 89 points). Bodega Luigi Bosca, Bodega Norton, Viña Doña Paula, La Posta del Viñatero, Dominio del Plata and Finca Sophenia are some of the wineries producing excellent values.

Mendoza still dominates the Argentine wine industry, accounting for three-quarters of its production. But Patagonia, located 600 miles to the south, is emerging with a growing number of interesting wineries and high quality wines. With poor, virgin alluvial soils and greater diurnal swings (the difference between daytime and nighttime temperatures) than Mendoza, the Patagonian province of Neuquén is proving to be an intriguing spot for wine production. Coupled with the history and older vines of the Río Negro province, which forms the eastern half of the region, Patagonia now demands consumer attention. (For more on this burgeoning area, see "In Deepest Patagonia," Nov. 15, 2008.)

But while Malbec soars and values abound, Argentina is not without its challenges. The number of wines with triple-digit prices is growing at an alarming rate. There are 18 such wines in this year's report, one more than in all previous years combined. With a high rate of inflation and a currency still pegged at 3 pesos to the U.S. dollar, which itself has suffered against other currencies, Argentine wineries have had to increase prices to offset shrinking profit margins. Not wanting to lose market share at the volume end of the production, most growers are raising prices on their higher-end wines instead.

In addition, consistency still remains an issue for the country's vintners as a whole, with 10 percent of the wines in this report failing to rate at least 80 points.

But despite the economic rumblings and the stubbornly persistent percentage of plonk, Argentina continues to steady its footing. By focusing on the grape that it does best, while also setting itself apart from other wine regions, Argentine wine is clearly here to stay.

James Molesworth’s Recommended Wines From Argentina
 

For complete reviews, see the Buying Guide of previous issues or www.winespectator.com.
An alphabetical listing of all wines tasted for this report is available at www.winespectator.com/121508.

Top Wines


Achával-Ferrer Malbec Mendoza Finca Altamira 2006 96 $112
Piercing aromas of violet, iron and blueberry fruit lead to a rich yet pure, precise palate of boysenberry and blackberry.

Achával-Ferrer Malbec Mendoza Finca Mirador 2006 95 $112
This has an intense palate that’s superracy, with underlying minerality driving the fruit through the seamless finish.

Alta Vista Alto Mendoza 2006 95 $80
Offers terrific intensity and drive, with a torrent of fig paste, macerated currant, boysenberry and blackberry fruit.

Bodega Noemía de Patagonia Río Negro Valley 2006 95 $130
Dense, but pure and driven, showing graphite, mineral and red licorice notes, with raspberry and boysenberry ganache.

Bodega Catena Zapata Malbec Mendoza Adrianna Vineyard 2004 94 $105
A glorious display of vivid, pure, modern fruit, with blueberry, boysenberry, fig and plum notes all blended together.

Bodega Catena Zapata Malbec Mendoza Nicasia Vineyard 2005 94 $105
Aims for power, with dark, dense layers of fig sauce, roasted plum and warm currant preserve. The finish is long and dense.

Viña Cobos Malbec Mendoza Marchiori Vineyard 2005 94 $150
Very lush and showy, with exotic fig, currant paste and boysenberry reduction notes layered over a creamy palate.

Luca Malbec de Altos Mendoza Nico 2005 94 $125
Exotic, with intensely concentrated but remarkably creamy fig, raspberry, boysenberry and currant fruit. Very impressive.
 

Dominio del Plata Nosotros Mendoza 2006 94 $100
Pulls no punches, with a torrent of crushed plum, raspberry and boysenberry fruit that pumps from start to finish. Malbec.

Alta Vista Malbec Luján de Cuyo Alizarine 2006 93 $50
Intense, with crushed plum and currant fruit surging over dark briar, fig sauce, dark chocolate bark and coffee notes.

Alta Vista Malbec Luján de Cuyo Serenade 2006 93 $50
Dark, almost brooding, showing fig paste, hoisin sauce, bittersweet cocoa, espresso and loam notes, with muscular tannins.

Bodega Catena Zapata Cabernet Sauvignon Mendoza Alta 2004 93 $45
This is a gorgeous, streamlined, modern Cabernet, with cocoa powder, loam, fig paste and molten chocolate notes.

Bodega Catena Zapata Malbec Mendoza Alta 2005 93 $50
Concentrated, with dark fig and currant paste, but also pure and driven. Really gorgeous for its density and mouthfeel.

Viña Cobos uNico Marchiori Vineyard Mendoza 2005 93 $165
Offers a rich palate of espresso, currant paste, warm fig bread and crushed blackberry. Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Bodegagas y Viñedos O. Fournier Malbec Uco Valley Alfa Crux 2004 93 $44
This is dark and packed with a large core of hoisin sauce, Port reduction, bittersweet cocoa, raspberry ganache and charcoal.
 
Luca Beso de Dante Mendoza 2006 93 $50
Fig, cocoa and ganache notes are backed by coffee, black licorice and loam. Long and rich. Malbec blend.

Luca Malbec Uco Valley 2007 93 $35
This goes for the gusto and pulls it off. The flavors glide along rich, velvety tannins to a long, mouthfilling finish.

Bodega Mendel Unus Mendoza 2006 93 $50
Vivid and tightly wound, with a racy core of blueberry, raspberry and fig fruit. Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon.

TriVento Malbec Mendoza Eolo 2005 93 $79
Really loaded, with raspberry ganache, currant paste, warm fig and melted black licorice flavors. Muscular but accessible.


Top Values

Bodega Luigi Bosca Malbec Luján de Cuyo Reserva 2005 91 $18
A big, broad-shouldered wine, with muscular layers of black fig, coffee, bittersweet cocoa and dark licorice.

La Posta del Viñatero Malbec Uco Valley Pizzella Family Vineyard 2007 91 $18
Ripe and flashy, with a showy layer of mocha leading the way for spice cake, raspberry and boysenberry fruit flavors.

Alamos Malbec Mendoza Selección 2007 90 $15
Round and fleshy, with enticing spice, blueberry, fig and boysenberry flavors backed by fruitcake and melted licorice hints.

Viña Doña Paula a Malbec Luján de Cuyo 2007 90 $16
Dark and winy, delivering warm currant paste, cocoa powder and Turkish coffee notes, with solid grip on the fleshy finish.

Bodega Norton Malbec Mendoza Reserva 2006 90 $18
Very toasty, offering showy mocha and spice aromatics, but also plenty of flesh, with lush raspberry, fig and plum notes.

La Posta del Viñatero Malbec Mendoza Angel Paulucci Vineyard 2007 90 $18
Juicy and ripe, with fig, blackberry, mocha and currant paste.

Bodega del Desierto Cabernet Franc Alto Valle del Rio Colorado 25/5 2005 89 $15
Ripe, with solid varietal character and fleshy, focused tannins.

Bodega del Desierto Syrah Alto Valle del Rio Colorado 25/5 2005 89 $15
This is on the beefy side, with thick but juicy flavors.

Viña Doña Paula a Shiraz-Malbec Luján de Cuyo 2006 89 $16
A dark, polished, modern style. Plush flavors lead the way.

Durigutti Malbec Mendoza 2006 89 $13
Delivers boysenberry, plum sauce, dark licorice and fruitcake.

Dominio del Plata Syrah-Bonarda Mendoza Crios de Susana Balbo 2006 89 $15
Very juicy and enticing, with lushly layered flavors.

La Posta del Viñatero Cocina Blend Mendoza 2007 89 $15
Offers fig, melted licorice and dark plum fruit. Malbec blend.

 

Malbec Laps The Field
With this red's dominance of the Argentine market, can diversity keep up with quality?
By James Molesworth
From Wine Spectator magazine, December 15, 2007 issue


Over the past decade, Malbec has become the leading varietal in Argentina's still-emerging wine industry—overshadowing the country's other grape varieties.

Malbec's juicy, fruit-driven profile is ideally suited to expressing the terroir of the high-elevation vineyards of Mendoza and Salta, and the desert-climate vineyards of Patagonia, prompting many wineries to put it first and foremost in their portfolios. The upside is an increasing number of delicious wines; the downside is a decrease in diversity, as other varieties take a backseat.

Argentina exports more wine to the United States than ever before—a record 2.6 million cases of wine in 2006—and 2007 is on pace to surpass that total. Malbec is now clearly Argentina's most important winegrape. Since my last report on Argentina ("Malbec on a Roll in Argentina," Nov. 30, 2006), I have reviewed more than 400 Argentine wines. Malbecs and Malbec blends account for a whopping 42 percent of that total. More than 115 Malbecs and blends scored 85 points or better on Wine Spectator's 100-point scale in this report, accounting for more than one-fourth of all wines reviewed.

Leading the way is the Bodega Catena Zapata Malbec Mendoza Argentino 2004 (95, $120), a new luxury cuvée from industry leader Nicolás Catena. Catena produced just 300 cases of this modern-style wine, which is massively endowed with dense layers of raspberry ganache, boysenberry and plum sauce but is also deftly balanced, with a long, graphite-driven finish.

Other top-scoring Malbecs include Achával-Ferrer's Finca Altamira Mendoza 2005 (94, $112) and Finca Mirador Mendoza 2005 (93, $112), and Viña Cobos' Malbec Mendoza Marchiori Vineyard 2004 (94, $150). Argentina has proved that its Malbecs can compete with the world's elite wines.

Although a growing number of small-production bottlings sport high prices, several labels have more modest price tags—and are easier to find. The graphite, tar, sweet dark chocolate and plum-filled Altos Las Hormigas Malbec Mendoza Viña Hormigas Reserva 2005 (92, $22) is a prime example.

Other top Malbec producers include Alta Vista, Dominio del Plata, Altocedro, Finca & Bodega Carlos Pulenta, Bodega Mendel, La Posta del Viñatero, Viña Doña Paula, Bodega Melipal, Bodega Renacer, Finca Sophenia and Viña Doña Paula, among others. All of these wineries are located in Mendoza, the country's largest and most important wine-producing region. Several have emerged in just the past few years, but they have been key players in the dramatic rise of Argentine wine quality during that same period. Even the large and venerable Trapiche winery, which has long been an underperformer, has picked up its game recently, thanks to the efforts of winemaker Daniel Pi.

Meanwhile, other interesting wineries operate at opposite ends of the country. Bodega Colomé is located in the northern region of Salta; Bodega Noemía de Patagonia and NQN Viñedos de la Patagonia are located in the remote southern region of Patagonia. Colomé's wines are exotic and plush, with fig and fruitcake flavors, while those from Patagonia tend to show red-fruit profiles along with a racy graphite underpinning. Together they provide a nice contrast to the typical Mendoza flavor profile of dark fruit, loam and licorice notes. (See "ABCs of Mendoza terroir" in last year's report for more on Mendoza and its subregions.)

That diversity within the wide range of Malbec bottlings will be a key to the long-term success of Argentina's wine industry.As the industry grows rapidly, more indistinguishable wines are being produced. Although the best show distinctive flavors, a large number of wines in this report seem to be cashing in on the rising popularity of Malbec, emphasizing oak and generic fruit flavors.

Malbec's double-edged sword isn't lost on the country's top producers. "From a diversity point of view, the answer is a resounding yes—there is enough diversity [of terroir] in Argentina to support the growth of demand worldwide," says Santiago Achával, owner of Achával-Ferrer. "The question is, is there enough originality, or desire to be original, in the winemakers?"

More and more, Argentina's wineries are being staffed by ambitious young winemakers. Argentina has little in the way of quality-winemaking history, so there are only a handful of experienced winemakers, such as Susana Balbo of Dominio del Plata, Roberto de la Mota of Bodega Mendel, Mariano de Paola of Familia Rutini and Mapema, and José Galante of Catena Zapata. As more wineries emerge, the ability of the new generation to set themselves apart, rather than follow a preordained winemaking recipe, will ultimately determine Argentina's success—or lack thereof.

The other question for Argentina is this: Can it rely almost entirely on Malbec at the expense of other varieties? Some of the country's best winemakers are betting on exactly that.

"In Tuscany there are many different appellations—Chianti, Brunello di Montalcino, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, Morellino di Scansano—and they are all made out of Sangiovese. Yet Tuscany is not more diverse than Mendoza in terms of terroir. There is plenty in both regions," says Tuscany native Alberto Antonini, winemaker at Altos Las Hormigas and consultant for a number of other Mendoza-based wineries. "I would prefer to create different appellations and wine profiles using [Argentina's] environmental diversity and one grape—Malbec—rather than create diversity by introducing more grapes and sticking on the weak concept of -varietal difference."

Malbec is clearly Argentina's signature grape, but some of Argentina's other varietals merit attention.

One of my pleasant discoveries this past year was Bodega Chacra, owned by Piero Incisa della Rocchetta, a member of the well-known Tuscan winemaking family behind Sassicaia. Chacra produces only Pinot Noir—no Malbec—with two bottlings each sourced from separate vineyards, one planted in 1932 and the other in 1955. The Bodega Chacra Pinot Noir Río Negro Treinta y Dos 2006 (92, $120) and the Pinot Noir Río Negro Cincuenta y Cinco 2006 (91, $100) offer captivating perfumes along with crushed cherry, mineral and wet earth notes and provide a tantalizing glimpse into the potential of the underdeveloped wine region of Patagonia.

Other non-Malbec options among red wines include Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Bonarda. Look for the Bodegas Nieto Senetiner Cabernet Sauvignon Mendoza Cadus 2003 (89, $40) and Kaiken Cabernet Sauvignon Mendoza Ultra 2005 (89, $25), both of which offer a textbook range of Cabernet flavors, including loam, black currant and cedar. In contrast, the Dominio del Plata Syrah-Bonarda Mendoza Crios de Susana Balbo 2005 (89, $15) delivers tasty, forward cherry, currant and licorice flavors along with a hard-to-beat price.

Winemaker Susana Balbo's Crios line is one of several that offer solid value; more than 100 wines in this report cost $15 or less per bottle and earned at least 85 points. Newcomers Bodega del Desierto, Bodegas y Viñedos Sur and Proviva join value stalwarts Bodegas Escorihuela, Pascual Toso and J. & F. Lurton with several value-oriented bottlings. (For the top wines and values in this report, see the chart on page 120.)

But consumers need to beware of pretenders. "Critter label" wines are popping up, and with modern market-driven labels and single-digit price tags, they might seem like a sure thing. Yet more often than not they contain weak juice. Some are even produced by wineries whose wines have failed under different labels. The Funky Llama wines made by Finca La Celia are a case in point.

As for white wines, in general they lag behind the reds. Torrontés, with its spicy, Muscat-like profile, provides a nice change of pace, but it is just as likely to be dull and soapy as it is to be fresh and floral. Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc are respectable, but save for a few exceptions, they don't consistently distinguish themselves from the rest of the world's copious offerings.

Argentina's wine industry is now at an important time in its history. It has tasted success and is enjoying the benefits of rapid growth. But now it must prove that it can leap the next hurdle by continuing to improve its overall quality while further developing and maintaining a distinct personality.

Senior editor James Molesworth is Wine Spectator's lead taster on the wines of Argentina.

Malbec On A Roll in Argentina
Impressive quality among the big reds, but watch out for the pretenders
By James Molesworth
From Wine Spectator magazine, November 30, 2006 issue


Argentina's wine industry continues to expand and improve at a rapid pace, thanks in large part to a burgeoning number of outstanding Malbecs, many from exciting new wineries. Yet the country is producing many uninspiring wines as well, a prospect that can make ferreting out quality a difficult task. As in recent years, the primary headache is inconsistency—Malbec has become the unrivaled star for Argentina, but not everyone has mastered it.

Alberto Antonini, winemaker at Altos Las Hormigas and consultant for a number of other wineries in Mendoza, notes that quality among Argentina's growing number of wineries is a mix of peaks and valleys. "But if I think of 11 years ago, when I started working here," he says, "the quality improvement has been great."

Since my last report on the country ("Two Tracks in Argentina," Nov. 30, 2005), I have blind-tasted nearly 400 wines in our New York office. Of the wines under review, more than 60 merited an outstanding rating (90 points or higher on the Wine Spectator 100-point scale), far and away the best performance yet from this massive country. Malbec is the major player, accounting for more than 40 percent of the total number of wines in this report and for more than three-quarters of the outstanding bottlings. (For a complete list of all wines tasted for this report, see the alphabetical chart beginning on page 179 of this issue's Buying Guide.)

For the third year in a row, Malbec specialist Achával-Ferrer has made the highest-rated wines, with two classic-scoring bottlings in this year's report: the Finca Altamira Mendoza 2004 (95 points, $112) and the Finca Bella Vista Mendoza 2004 (95, $112).

Both wines are 100 percent Malbec, though the grape name has been dropped from the front labels. The Finca Altamira is sourced from La Consulta and shows the racy fruit and acidity typical of this area, while the Finca Bella Vista, sourced from Perdriel, shows weightier black fruits and a more muscular structure. Both bottlings are helping to define the terroir of Mendoza, a region rich with densely planted, old-vine vineyards that has drawn interest from native and outside investors alike. (For more on the terroir of Mendoza, see "ABCs," page 97).

One of the outsiders is Paul Hobbs, the California-based winemaker who is a partner in Viña Cobos, the only other producer to receive a classic rating in this report—in his case, for the exotic and opulent Malbec Mendoza Marchiori Vineyard 2003 (95, $150), which Hobbs fashioned with partners Luis Barraud and Andrea Marchiori. The wine rates 95 points for the second vintage in a row, albeit with a head-scratching increase in price.

Other top Malbecs include the Bodega Catena Zapata Malbec Mendoza Alta 2003 (94, $45), the Bodega Noemía de Patagonia Río Negro Valley 2004 (94, $145), the Alta Vista Alto Mendoza 2004 (93, $60) and the Bodega Colomé Reserva Calchaquí Valley 2003 (93, $90), which marks the U.S. debut for this Donald Hess-owned project. (For more on this producer and other new faces, see "10 Wineries on the High Road to Quality," page 98.)

In the first half of 2006, Argentina sent more than 1.3 million cases of wine to the United States, with every indication that it would break the previous year's record of nearly 2.3 million cases, particularly since exports are typically stronger in the second half of the year. America has become the No. 1 market for Argentinean wines, but as the tide rises on the strength of the best bottlings, a growing number of weaker efforts ride in behind them.

Almost one-fifth of the wines in this report failed to break into the good range (at least 80 points), a percentage that remains stubbornly consistent as the total number of wines grows. I strongly caution consumers who hear the buzz about Argentinean Malbec against going out and blindly trying the first bottle they see on their retailer's shelf. Many of the best wines are small in terms of production and are allotted to restaurant accounts more than to retailers. What is left over is often aimed at the unsuspecting. (The chart on page 94 will steer you to some well-priced Malbecs at solid scores.)

Thankfully, though, Argentina is not only high-end, small-production wines or nothing. With its large vineyard-base and grape-friendly growing conditions, Argentina is showing flashes of success as it competes with other giants of value-wine production, such as Australia and Chile. You just need to know where to look.

One good value comes from the country's preeminent producer, Bodega Catena Zapata. The Malbec Mendoza Alamos Selección 2005 (88, $15) is a new bottling from owner Nicolás Catena and winemaker José Galante that focuses on old-vine vineyards—and is not to be confused with the winery's Malbec Mendoza Alamos 2005 (87, $10). The Alamos Selección bottling has been in the works for a few years, while Catena negotiated with growers who had been selling their grapes in bulk, convincing some to reduce their yields and to focus on quality. The result is a polished wine, with soft plum and boysenberry fruit flavors.

Overall, in fact, there are more than 70 wines in this report that cost $15 or less a bottle and rate 85 or more points. Examples include the Andeluna Malbec Mendoza Winemaker's Selection 2004 (89, $13), the Viña Doña Paula Malbec Luján de Cuyo 2004 (89, $14), the Bodegas Nieto Senetiner Don Nicanor Mendoza 2003 (89, $15) and the Bodegas Terrazas de los Andes Malbec Mendoza 2005 (88, $10), of which 120,000 cases were produced.

Beyond Malbec, however, the field thins out considerably. Cabernet Sauvignon is next in line in terms of quality—with the Valentín Bianchi Cabernet Sauvignon San Rafael Famiglia 2004 (90, $18), in particular, offering creamy-textured mocha, plum and boysenberry flavors—followed by a small but growing number of Syrah bottlings that show promise. The Luca Syrah Altos de Mendoza 2004 (91, $32) is among the best. There are also a handful of Bonarda (a soft, plummy wine similar to Italy's Dolcetto), Merlot and Tempranillo bottlings.

Whites can be solid, if nondescript, with Chardonnays and Sauvignon Blancs lacking distinction from versions produced elsewhere around the world. The country also grows Torrontés, a spicy Muscat-like grape that occasionally makes an interesting wine such as the J. & F. Lurton Torrontés Uco Valley Reserva 2005 (85, $13). Most Argentinean whites are best drunk on release.

Inconsistencies among the country's wines can't be blamed on the weather. Argentina—and Mendoza in particular—has been blessed with a strong run of vintages since 2002, including the 2004 vintage, which currently dominates the marketplace. The vintage was cooler than 2002 or 2003, with some late rains that offset the season's dryness.

Just fewer than half the wines in this report are 2004s, with the rest newly released 2005s and late-release 2003s. 2005 is likely to be the best year across the board since 2002, thanks to a long, even growing season and reduced yields (due to a cool spell at flowering). These lower yields should lead to wines that achieve increased concentration without sacrificing balance. Though most of the 2005s have yet to be released, early highlights include the La Posta del Viñatero Malbec Luján de Cuyo Angel Paulucci Vineyard 2005 (90, $18).

For those picking among the 2003s, meanwhile, the vintage was marked by a wild heat wave, which led to some spectacular wines but also some that are slightly pruny and overwrought. (For a rundown of Argentina's recent vintages, see the chart on this page.

Argentina continues to provide tantalizing glimpses of success, along with a groundswell of new wineries. Sorting through the imitators to find the hidden gems is more than worth the effort.

Senior editor James Molesworth is Wine Spectator's lead taster on the wines of Argentina.

 

Two Tracks In Argentina
While quality continues to rise, some disappointments dilute the country's success
By James Molesworth
From Wine Spectator magazine, November 30, 2005 issue


Argentina has been on a roll. Wine quality continues to rise, with Malbec as the signature varietal and Mendoza, the lead wine-producing region, enjoying a run of good vintages.

Exports to this country are booming as consumers become aware of Malbec in particular and Argentinean wines in general. More than 2 million cases of wine from Argentina were sent to the United States in 2004, which is more than double the 2002 total. Since my last report on the region ("Malbec's Momentum," Nov. 30, 2004), I have tasted more than 325 Argentinean wines—a jump from the 262 I tasted the previous year. But even as the country's top producers continue to improve, their success is in danger of being diluted by an ocean of weak, boring wines that are riding their coattails in this region.

Malbec continues to be the dominant player in terms of both quality and quantity. The grape, which produces lush fruit flavors of boysenberry and blackberry, along with vibrant acidity, is without question Argentina's lead varietal. The 140 Malbecs I tasted represent more than 40 percent of the wines in this report, and as a group, they are the sweet spot of quality, with 25 percent of them rating at least 90 points, or outstanding, on Wine Spectator's 100-point scale.

The Achával-Ferrer winery, headed by Argentinean owner Santiago Achával and Italian winemaker Roberto Cipresso, continues to lead the way. The Achával-Ferrer Malbec Mendoza Finca Altamira 2003 (96, $85) sets a new standard for Argentinean wine, topping its performance in the 2002 vintage as it provides an amazing display of fruit, terroir and balance.

Other top Malbecs include the plush, opulent Viña Cobos Malbec Mendoza Marchiori Vineyard 2002 (95, $75) and the deftly crafted Bodega Catena Zapata Malbec Mendoza Alta 2002 (93, $45). Also of note is the Bodega Noemía de Patagonia Rio Negro Valley 2002 (93, $155), a dense Malbec loaded with graphite and mocha notes, produced from the less-heralded, southern part of the country.

These wines are the last of the heavy hitters to be released from the 2002 vintage—Argentina's best in a generation. The three vintages that currently dominate the market, 2004, 2003 and 2002, are all strong, but they have their differences (for an overview of recent Argentinean vintages, see the chart on page 134).

The wines from the 2002 vintage are pure, concentrated and balanced; all the major varietals performed well. A heat spike marked the 2003 season, and while Malbec was stellar, other grapes showed less consistency. 2004 is a solid vintage, with a long, dry growing season marred only by late harvesttime rains that hampered the Cabernet Sauvignon crop. With these three vintages, Argentina's winemakers have plenty of raw materials with which to work.

Unfortunately, not all wineries were successful in taking what Mother Nature delivered and turning it into high quality wine. Twenty percent of the wines in this report failed to rate at least 80 points, a distressing total. And this lackluster showing isn't limited to the innocuous varietal bottlings that typically make up the bottom rung of the quality ladder. Too many wines packaged in heavy bottles and carrying price tags of $30 or more deliver only modest fruit, lashed with overbearing oak.

Many of the top producers decry the recent trend, though most did not want to be directly quoted as being critical of their colleagues. They note that many wineries and brands are being launched by those with little or no experience in the wine industry, would-be vintners looking to capitalize on Argentina's newfound image and success.

"Welcome to the second coming of the California gold rush," says Paul Hobbs, partner in Viña Cobos and consulting winemaker for several Argentinean wineries, about the rapidly filling bandwagon. "There are lots of newcomers without a clue."

Leoncio Arizu's top two wines—the Malbec Luján de Cuyo Luigi Bosca Reserva 2002 (89, $17) and Malbec Luján de Cuyo Luigi Bosca DOC 2002 (88, $19)—display very good varietal character and quality. But of the winery's 15 wines in this report, nearly half failed to break 80 points. The Malbecs show what can be done when Argentinean wineries play to their strengths, but with three Chardonnays, two Cabernet-based blends, a Pinot Noir, a Tempranillo and several other bottlings completing the portfolio, the overall impact is weak.

Not all the newcomers are struggling, however. The most successful are often backed by experience in the wine industry, either locally or internationally. Bodega Monteviejo has been up and running for some time, but finally debuted in the United States this year. Owner Catherine Péré-Vergé (who also owns Pomerol châteaus Le Gay and Montviel) built a showcase winery several years ago in the Uco Valley and hired Michel Rolland as a consultant. The wines are made in a flashy, new-oak style; both the red Lindaflor Uco Valley

(89, $40), made from 100 percent Malbec, and the Chardonnay Uco Valley Lindaflor 2004 (88, $15) will appeal to those who favor fruit-forward styles.

Aurelio Montes, of Chile's Viña Montes, is building on his recent experience in Argentina by expanding his Lomas del Valle winery with two reserve-level bottlings. The Cabernet Sauvignon Mendoza Kaiken Ultra 2003 (89, $23) and Malbec Mendoza Kaiken Ultra 2003 (88, $23) are solid buys. Though Malbec is king in Argentina, I prefer the Cabernet here—not surprising, since Montes has long made top Cabernets in Chile.

Argentina still delivers good values. The Clos de los Siete Mendoza 2003 (90, $15), Bodegas Terrazas de los Andes Malbec Mendoza Reserva 2003 (90, $15) and Altos Las Hormigas Malbec Mendoza 2003 (88, $10) showcase the country's top grape in different ways. The toasty, forward Clos de los Siete will gratify the hedonists, while the Terrazas Reserva is a rich and muscular wine that needs brief cellaring. The Hormigas delivers vivid boysenberry and plum fruit—a textbook introduction to Argentinean Malbec.

While Malbec dominates, Argentina is demonstrating success with other grapes as well. For reds, Cabernet Sauvignon is an important player, with Syrah and Bonarda adding range. Examples include the Bodegas Nieto Senetiner Don Nicanor Mendoza 2002 (89, $14), a structured, chocolaty blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec and Merlot; the round, easy Altos Las Hormigas Bonarda Mendoza Colonia Las Liebres 2004 (87, $8); and the ripe, fleshy, fruit-filled Dominio del Plata Syrah-Bonarda Mendoza Crios de Susana Balbo 2004 (87, $15).

Other wineries offering consistent quality and value within their portfolios include Bodega Norton, Familia Rutini, Alta Vista, Bodegas Caro, Bodegas Escorihuela, Bodegas y Viñedos O. Fournier, Enrique Foster, La Posta del Viñatero, Luca, Mapema, Pascual Toso and Viña Doña Paula. In all, there are more than two-dozen wines in this report that cost $15 or less and rate at least 87 points.

Whites are few among Argentinean wines; there are just over four dozen total in this report. And while they may not provide the unique profile that Malbec does, don't overlook the Valentín Bianchi Sauvignon Blanc San Rafael Famiglia 2004 (88, $15) and Bodega El Portillo Chardonnay Uco Valley 2004 (86, $9). Both deliver solid varietal character at buy-by-the-case prices.

Argentina has proven that it can produce great wines, but rapid progress often brings growing pains. Consumers will need to exercise both patience and caution as they navigate this new influx of wine, while quality producers must continue their hard work in order to distinguish themselves from the growing herd.

Senior editor James Molesworth is Wine Spectator's lead taster for the wines of Argentina.


 

Chile Returns to its Roots
With successful vintages in 2005 and 2006, solid values lead the way
By James Molesworth
From Wine Spectator magazine, May 15, 2008 issue


In recent years, as the world economy has soared, Chile's wine producers have tried to shrug off their hard-won reputation for affordable wines and move up the scale in price and prestige. But with a global recession looming, the country's ability to deliver good value is ever more resonating with American wine drinkers.

Chile's top producers have not backed away from their determination to make world-class bottlings, and some are succeeding. Yet exports to the United States are booming because of the big wineries' ability to turn out delicious wines at everyday prices.

"All the European stuff is jumping so high, so fast [in price]," says Agustin Huneeus Jr. of Veramonte in the Casablanca Valley. "And in that environment, Chile is really winning the hearts and minds of people in the $15 to $20 range."

That victory is due to hard work behind the scenes. Winemakers have been overhauling their vineyards, improving clonal selection and picking sites better suited to specific varieties. The results are now hitting retail shelves in the form of rich, polished reds from 2005—the best vintage for Chile in some time—along with bright, delineated '06 and '07 whites.

Overall, the quality of Chilean wine continues to rise impressively. Since my last report on the country ("Chile's Next Challenge," May 15, 2007), I have reviewed nearly 400 wines in our New York office. Of these, almost 50 received outstanding ratings (90 points or more on the Wine Spectator 100-point scale), which is more than in any previous report.

This wide-ranging group shows how successful producers have been with a number of different varieties—from Syrah to Carmenère to Chardonnay. Across the board, though, Cabernet Sauvignon still reigns in Chile, accounting for nearly a third of the wines in this report and offering the best source of consistent quality.

The top-scoring wines this year are the Viña Almaviva Puente Alto 2005 (95 points, $75) and the Viña Montes Alpha M Santa Cruz 2005 (95, $93). This pair illustrates what Chile does best: Both are Cabernet Sauvignon-based blends that show dense structures, dark fruit profiles and loam-driven finishes, without rugged tannins or exacerbated alcohol levels. They also represent the heart of the country's red-wine production, the Maipo and Colchagua valleys, respectively.

With the 2005 vintage, Viña Montes has released its best wines to date. The Folly Santa Cruz 2005 (94, $93), made from 100 percent Syrah, along with the Purple Angel Colchagua Valley 2005 (91, $57), made from Carmenère and Petit Verdot, represent new high-water marks for its portfolio. The winery also turns out some exciting values, including the Sauvignon Blanc Leyda Valley Leyda Vineyard 2007 (89, $16).

Other high-scorers in this report include the Casa Lapostolle Clos Apalta Colchagua Valley 2004 (93, $70), the Concha y Toro Cabernet Sauvignon Puente Alto Don Melchor 2004 (93, $50) and the Antiyal Maipo Valley 2005 (92, $55). Each of these bottlings now boasts an established track record for quality and a recognized name. (Among several other top wines, the 2005 Clos Apalta and Don Melchor bottlings were not released in time to be included here.)

The top-scoring Chilean wines have remained a relatively closed club in recent years. But the rank-and-file bottlings are finally starting to surge upward in quality, with nearly 240 wines in this report (about 60 percent of the total) rating at least 85 points, or very good. In addition, more than three-quarters of the wines retail for $20 or less per bottle. Though it may not suit their self-image, Chile's producers are cranking out the values these days.

"Chilean efforts to get rid of the 'value' tag have seen little headway, as first impressions die hard," says Douglas Murray, co-owner of Viña Montes. "Still, we hope that the focus will be more on quality than price in the coming years."

For the most part, Chilean vintners have turned their focus to the under-$20-per-bottle segment. With land and labor costs that are still far below those of premier regions such as Napa or Bordeaux, producers know that if they focus on quality, they can overdeliver at this price point. As the dollar has slid over the past few years against the Chilean peso—from as high as 750 pesos to around 450 as of press time—Chile's wineries have felt the squeeze on their profit margins. In order to survive, they have eschewed the kind of small-production, high-priced wines that show little impact on the bottom line and have concentrated instead on a combination of high volume and good value that is hard to beat.

Rock-solid examples of Chilean values include the Concha y Toro Carmenère Rapel Valley Casillero del Diablo Reserve 2006 (88, $10, 180,000 cases produced), the Viña Santa Rita Cabernet Sauvignon Maipo Valley Reserva 2005 (87, $11, 177,000 cases produced) and the MontGras Cabernet Sauvignon Colchagua Valley Reserva 2006 (87, $13, 50,000 cases produced). Among the number of other wineries turning out excellent values that should be easy to find are Veramonte, Viña Echeverría, Viñedos Emiliana, Viña Morandé, Casa Lapostolle, Viña Carmen and Viña Haras de Pirque.

One of the main reasons for the current surge in quality has been the overhaul of vineyards that Chilean wineries undertook during the 1990s, when they moved from high-yielding sites on the valley floor to lower-yielding hillside areas that typically produce higher quality grapes. In addition, the clonal selection for specific varieties (Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir, in particular) has improved, providing winemakers with superior raw materials. Better site selection—most significantly, cooler areas for whites—has also resulted in a jump in quality.

"When you find the right area, you don't need to do much else," says Adolfo Hurtado, winemaker at Viña Cono Sur, which is specializing in cool-climate varieties and uses Pinot Noir for its flagship bottling. "And now we finally know what the right areas are—Casablanca for Pinot, not Maipo, and so on."

In its first full year on the U.S. market, Viña Cono Sur exported more than 100,000 cases of wine here. The Pinot Noir Casablanca Valley Ocio 2006 (90, $50) is just the second Pinot Noir from Chile to rate outstanding, while the Sauvignon Blanc Casablanca Valley 20 Barrels 2007 (89, $20) and the Chardonnay Casablanca Valley 20 Barrels 2006 (88, $20) are emblematic of the country's rapidly improving white wines.

Across the board, both Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc are showing solid quality at affordable prices. Most of the nearly four dozen Chardonnays in this report rate 85 points or higher and cost less than $20 per bottle, and more than half of the 50-plus Sauvignon Blancs fall into the same category of very good or better, with an average price per bottle of less than $15.

As cooler climates such as the Casablanca, Limarí, Mar-chigüe and San Antonio valleys are being exploited, some new faces are also starting to emerge. Look for the Viña Quintay Sauvignon Blanc Casa-blanca Valley 2006 (88, $16), offering bright, grassy flavors, as well as the Agrícola Llancay Chardonnay Casablanca Valley Loma Larga B3-B4 2005 (88, $16), which combines fig and grilled nut notes with the fresh, racy finish typical of Casa-blanca Chardonnays.

Among red wines, the Syrahs from Quinta de Viluco made their U.S. debut this past year. With the help of consulting winemaker Álvaro Espinoza of Antiyal, the Syrah Maipo Valley 2005 (90, $23) is dark, ripe and rich, with lots of plum sauce, licorice and spice cake flavors. Another new face in Chilean Syrah draws on the experience of former Penfolds winemaker John Duval, who has teamed with Viña Ventisquero to produce the Syrah Colchagua Valley Pangea 2004 (91, $50), which offers a velvety-textured mix of blue, black and red fruit.

Large producers continue to dominate Chile's wine industry as a whole, with the top 10 exporting wineries accounting for more than 60 percent of total exports to the United States, and so the growing number of new faces represents a welcome change.

Some of the larger companies that have historically lagged behind in terms of quality are improving their game. Viña San Pedro hired Marco Puyo as head winemaker in time to vinify the 2006 vintage—he blended the winery's 2005s as well—and the early results are promising: The Cabernet Sauvignon Maipo Valley 1865 Reserva 2005 (89, $20) is the best bottling from this producer in some time. Also on the right path is Viña Errázuriz, which has cleaned up both its brettanomyces and TBA problems, thanks to the efforts of head winemaker Francisco Baettig. The Don Maximiano Founder's Reserve Aconcagua Valley 2005 (91, $50) is the best vintage for this Cabernet Sauvignon-based blend since the 2001 version.

The Chilean wine industry is still very much in transition, with room for improvement from its leaders on down. But the signs of progress are clear, with new viticultural areas now bearing fruit, white wines steadily making strides and new producers adding diversity. And this proof of Chile's commitment to quality is underscored by its continued strength in Cabernet Sauvignon and its increasing number of classic and outstanding bottlings, which show that the country's wines can compete with the world's best.

Senior editor James Molesworth is Wine Spectator's lead taster on the wines of Chile.

James Molesworth’s Recommended Wines From Chile
For complete reviews, see the Buying Guide of this or previous issues or the Wine Ratings search at www.winespectator.com.
An alphabetical listing of all wines tasted for this report is available at www.winespectator.com/051508.

Top Wines

Viña Almaviva Puente Alto 2005 95 $75
Dense but racy, showing shaved vanilla bean, black currant paste, fig and loam notes. Really well-built. Cabernet blend.
 

Viña Montes Alpha M Santa Cruz 2005 95 $93
Beautifully rendered. Sleek and refined, with mocha, espresso, bittersweet coffee, mineral and currant paste. Cabernet blend.
 

Viña Montes Folly Santa Cruz 2005 94 $93
This powerful Syrah is dense and layered, with lots of fig, black currant paste, mocha and black licorice flavors.
 

Casa Lapostolle Clos Apalta Colchagua Valley 2004 93 $70
Has gorgeous aromas of crushed plum and boysenberry fruit, with sweet tobacco, mocha and vanilla. Carmenère blend.
 

Concha y Toro Cabernet Sauvignon Puente Alto Don Melchor 2004 93 $50
Offers alluring coffee bean, currant paste and fig aromas and flavors, with ample loamy tannins and a ripe, muscular finish.
 

Antiyal Maipo Valley 2005 92 $55
This delivers blackberry, bramble, grilled meat and lilac, with plenty of guts and ample structure. Carmenère blend.
 

Viña Carmen Cabernet Sauvignon Maipo Valley Gold Reserve 2003 92 $68
Powerful, with currant and fig preserve augmented with
bittersweet cocoa, loam, dark licorice and graphite notes.
 

Viña Montes Syrah Colchagua Valley Alpha Apalta Vineyard 2005 92 $25
Ripe and concentrated, yet polished and refined, with dark cherry, blackberry and briar. Long and fleshy on the finish.
 

Viñedos Orgánicos Emiliana Gê Colchagua Valley 2003 92 $89
Big and powerful, with chocolate, loam, tar, black currant, fig and olive paste. Yet shows plenty of definition. Syrah blend.
 

Viña Santa Rita Triple C Maipo Valley 2004 92 $56
A great Maipo profile, with dark loam, coffee, black licorice and tobacco flavors. Big and chewy. Cabernet Franc blend.


Top Value

De Martino Chardonnay Limarí Valley Legado Reserva 2006 89 $15
Very tasty, with fresh-cut green apple, pear and fig backed by judicious toast. A minerality checks in on the finish.
 

2 Brothers Cabernet Sauvignon Colchagua Valley Reserva 2005 88 $15
Surprisingly minty up front, with more typical juicy red and blackberry fruit and a briary finish that pulls it all together.
 

Alto de Casablanca Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot Maipo Valley Duo 2004 88 $15
Shows a solid mix of red currant, plum, pepper, tobacco and toast notes, with a supple, fine-grained finish.
 

Concha y Toro Carmenère Rapel Valley Casillero del Diablo Reserve 2006 88 $10
Modestly structured, with cocoa powder, currant paste, briar and tobacco notes backed by nice grip on the finish.

Concha y Toro Chardonnay Casablanca Valley Casillero del Diablo Reserve 2006 88 $10
A focused Chardonnay, with nice fig, hazelnut, floral and orange blossom notes. Has good length on the finish.
 

Viña Cono Sur Sauvignon Blanc Casablanca Valley Visión Block Loma Roja 2006 88 $14
Plump, with grapefruit and lemon zest on a round, rich frame.
 

Viña Echeverría Cabernet Sauvignon Molina Reserva 2005 88 $13
A nice loamy version. Fine-grained tannins carry dried currant, cedar, vanilla bean and coffee notes to an elegant finish.
 

Viñedos Emiliana Carmenère Colchagua Valley Natura 2005 88 $10
Dark, juicy plum, blackberry and cherry fruit is layered with sweet toast and tobacco, vanilla and mineral on the finish.
 

MontGras Carmenère Colchagua Valley Reserva 2006 88 $13
A tasty, textbook version of the grape, with modest toast, a fleshy texture and ripe plum and black cherry notes.
 

Odfjell Merlot Maipo Valley Armador 2005 88 $12
Mixed berry fruit works with modest toast and lingering herb, graphite and mineral hints on the finish.
 

Viña Carmen Cabernet Sauvignon Maipo Valley 2005 87 $9
Offers a mix of currant, fig, loam, coffee and sweet earth.
 

Viñedos Emiliana Chardonnay Casablanca Valley Natura 2006 87 $10
Bright, with mineral and floral notes leading the way for apple and quince fruit flavors, followed by a fresh finish.
 

Viña Haraaras de Pirque Sauvignon Blanc Maipo Valley 2006 87 $10
A fresh, lean style, with a nice chalky spine driving through lime and chive flavors.
 

Viña Montes Malbec Colchagua Valley Classic Series 2006 87 $12
Ripe and solid, with a juicy core of raspberry and briar flavors.
 

Viña La Pancora Apaltagua Envero Colchagua Valley 2005 87 $15
Smoky and fleshy, with dark plum fruit backed by toast and tobacco notes. Carmenère and Cabernet Sauvignon.
 

Viña Santa Rita Cabernet Sauvignon Maipo Valley Reserva 2005 87 $11
Dark but focused, with black currant, loam, mint and tobacco.
 

Viña Santa Rita Carmenère Rapel Valley Reserva 2005 87 $11
Soft and juicy, showing cassis, plum fruit and sweet toast.
 

Viña Santa Rita Merlot Maipo Valley Reserva 2005 87 $11
This is sweet and round, with plum and berry fruit.
 

Veramonte Cabernet Sauvignon Colchagua Valley Reserva 2005 87 $10
A fleshy mix of black currant, licorice, bramble and sweet toast.

Veramonte Chardonnay Casablanca Valley Reserva 2006 87 $10
Pretty, with hints of peach, melon and citrus.


 

Malbec Beckons - Heed the Call
Argentina's signature red deserves its wild popularity, offering zing and boldness for modest prices
By DOROTHY J. GAITER AND JOHN BRECHER
Printed in The Wall Street Journal, page W6
FEBRUARY 5, 2009

We wouldn't usually revisit a type of wine just 18 months after a broad blind tasting. But we were at a fancy holiday party recently, the kind where only the trendiest wines are served, and the red was Malbec from Argentina. When we mentioned the wine to another guest, he said, "Oh, my wife discovered Malbec last summer and now she won't drink anything else." Then we were on a radio show and the producer said, "Malbecs have been my husband's favorite for a year or so." In October we did a blind tasting for a law firm in Texas and the organizer suggested Malbec. The drumbeat of Malbec enthusiasm just kept coming: from Journal economics expert David Wessel in Washington, from Dottie's sister Juarlyn in Atlanta, from former Open That Bottle Night celebrant Chris Morris of Richmond, Va., who wrote: "Our best bottle of the year was the Gascón Malbec '07 -- and only 13 bucks!"

The explosive emergence of Malbec from Argentina is like nothing we've seen since the sudden rise of Merlot more than a decade ago, and this is even more interesting: While much of Merlot's attraction was that it was smooth and easy, Malbec is more challenging, with spicier, edgier tastes -- and it's from a foreign country, too. We decided it was clearly time to revisit this phenomenon with this question in mind: How is Malbec handling its newfound fame?

To quickly recap how we got from there to here: Malbec is one of the classic grapes of Bordeaux, but it's not much of a factor in France anymore outside of Cahors, where it makes the famous "black wine." Argentina's resurgent wine industry placed its bets on Malbec and it has paid off big-time: Argentina's wine imports into the U.S. have risen eightfold since we first wrote about its Malbec in 1999. And look at it this way: As recently as 2003, Americans drank about 11 bottles of Australian wine for every bottle of Argentine wine; for the first 11 months of last year, that figure was less than three to one. Argentina has become the fourth biggest exporter of wine to the U.S. by volume (following Italy, Australia and France), having overtaken Germany, Spain and Chile over the past five years. Argentina's Malbec has become so popular that there are now more U.S. Malbecs than we've ever seen -- and not just in California: We recently tried a Malbec of unusual clarity and spiciness from Pearmund Cellars in Virginia (Berry Hill Vineyard 2007; $25).

In the past, we have found that wines that gain sudden popularity end up suffering for it (see "Merlot"). Simply put, here's the equation: Everybody and his brother and sister decides to get in on the action, so they plant vineyards in less-choice areas. Maybe they allow the vines to grow like crazy, producing watery grapes. And then, to make up for the deficient fruit, the winemakers use all sorts of shortcuts that ultimately give the wines an overlay of flavors -- often oaky, vanilla flavors -- that leave the wines tasting like sweet, woody water with some coloring added.

Can Malbec avoid this fate? We bought 50 to find out. There are so many on shelves today that we could have bought 100 different ones. We picked up most of the well-known names, but included a few more-obscure labels as well. We bought only the 2006 and 2007 vintages, since those are the ones you are most likely to see and because these wines were made since Malbec started its ascent. And while we did not set a price limit, the vast majority cost less than $20, with a bulge between $10 and $12.

First, let's say this: We have been Malbec fans for a decade now and we continue to believe the excitement about Malbec is justified. These are tasty, interesting wines, with spicy, black-pepper tastes, some blackberries, good acidity and crisp edges. The good ones taste like ripe fruit and earth, maybe with some sage or rosemary, and are often terrific bargains. Our best of tasting and one of our best values, Altos Las Hormigas 2007, a longtime favorite, cost just $10.99 and was bursting with clean, true fruit. Our other best value, Trapiche "Oak Cask" 2006, was exceptionally bright for such a big wine and also cost just $10.99. In fact, we liked the majority of the wines and were delighted to welcome some new names among our favorites. (Two of our longtime favorites, Susana Balbo and Alamos, were good this time but were outshone by others.)


All that said, we also feel it's a good time to raise a yellow flag because more wines than we would have expected -- and more than in past tastings -- were not very pleasant. They tasted too much like bulk wines, made with little fruit and less care. Too many were dripping with vanilla-oak tastes that obscured any real fruit flavors. And here's an interesting note: One of the charms of good Malbec is its zingy acidity, which helps to leaven its bold tastes; some of these, however, tasted almost like acid had been poured onto the top, leaving an overlay that was so strong it actually tasted more like a layer of ReaLemon. Oddly, some even tasted like they had a little shake of salt. We don't like salt in our wine.


We still believe the growing aisles of Argentine Malbec are a safe bet at your wine store, especially considering the low prices. We would urge producers not to kill the golden goose by producing oceans of similar-tasting, inauthentic, characterless wine. Consumers clearly have warmed to Malbec because it is interesting, different and a little bit riskier than Merlot. Turning it into bland, sweet Merlot would be a mistake. And, trust us, consumers aren't dumb. They'll know -- just as they know right now that good Malbec is one of the wine world's great red-wine bargains.

In a broad blind tasting of Malbec from Argentina from the 2006 and 2007 vintages, these were our favorites. These are generally medium-bodied wines that might age well for a couple of years, but are ready to drink now. They pair beautifully with steak and substantial, savory eggplant and lentil dishes.

Altos Las Hormigas 2007 (Mendoza). $10.99.
Very Good/Delicious. Best of tasting and best value (tie). Serious pepper and spice, with some crispness and plenty of blackberries and plums. Quite dry, yet bursting with fruit. We also liked the Altos "Reserva" 2006 ($22.99).

Trapiche 'Oak Cask' 2006 (Mendoza). $10.99.
Very Good. Best value (tie). Memorable black-tar nose, with some charred wood. Rich, black wine with good minerals. Fresh and lively despite its weight, with big, bright fruit.

Achaval Ferrer Winery 2007 (Mendoza). $22*.
Very Good. Just plain pleasing. Ripe, tasty and easy to like, with a soulful earthiness and a dash of lemon. Comfort wine, easy to sip and easy to like. Drink now.

Colomé 2006 (Valle Calchaquí, Salta).
$25*.
Very Good. Spicy, somewhat herbal nose. True, fleshy fruit, with a black-pepper core and fine acidity that keeps it from tasting heavy and too concentrated. Rounder and more complete than most, truly satisfying.

Famiglia Bianchi 2006 (San Rafael, Mendoza).
$16.99.
Very Good. Spicy and peppery, lighter than some but with ripe, earthy fruit. Nicely balanced, with black cherry-blackberry fruit and some interesting edges.

Bodega Lurton 'Reserva' 2006 (Mendoza). $13.99.
Good/Very Good. Tastes true and nicely crisp, but more relaxed than many, like everything was taken down a notch, so it's especially good with food.

Bodega Noemia de Patagonia 'A Lisa' 2007 (Rio Negro Valley).
$21.99.
Good/Very Good. Looks pretty, like black velvet, and it tastes that way, too, dark, with some sleekness. John thought it was overly smooth, so it lacked some authenticity, but Dottie disagreed. We also liked Bodega Noemia "J. Alberto" 2007 ($47).

Henry Lagarde 'Reserve' 2006 (Mendoza). $15.
Good/Very Good. Good structure in a lighter package than many, with good acidity and softer tannins. Long, friendly finish. Restrained and very easy to like, almost like Malbec Lite, in a good way.

Rutini Wines 2006 (Mendoza).
$15.95.
Good/Very Good. Fleshy, dark and nicely acidic. Well-balanced and approachable, with a lovely, long, blackberry finish. Easy to sip, but not lacking character.

NOTE: Wines are rated on a scale that ranges: Yech, OK, Good, Very Good, Delicious and Delicious! These came from California and New York. *We paid $24.99 for Achaval Ferrer and $22.99 for Colomé, but these prices appear to be more representative. Prices vary widely.




 

Chile's Statuesque Reds
By Fred Tasker




With the soaring Andes as the backdrop, a far-reaching revolution is taking place in Chile's wine industry. And a handful of statuesque reds lead the way.
A dozen years ago, when Chile cast off the shackles of Augusto Pinochet's dictatorship and embraced a stable, democratic government, the country had already earned a reputation for fruity and ripe, if sometimes oxidized, red wines at friendly prices. With a supporting cast of $5 and $10 Merlots and Cabs gaining notoriety and winning medals, Chilean wine soared in popularity in international markets, becoming the third-largest source of U.S. wine imports in 1998 with 5.3 million 12-bottle cases, according to the Department of Commerce.

As Chile's free market economy gained momentum, outside money, expertise and equipment began to pour into its wine industry. Local growers increasingly adopted international wine standards, and Chile's red wines took a quantum leap in quality. And price.

Chile's established players are making top-flight reds - among them Errazuriz Don Maximiano Founder's Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Concha y Toro Don Melchor, Santa Rita Casa Real and Cousiño-Macul Finis Terrae - but the excitement these days is being generated by the country's newest hybrids.

Today more than half a dozen powerful, complex reds, crafted with state-of-the-art methods made possible by huge cash infusions from both home and abroad, are entering the U.S. market at $20 to $60 per bottle. The money to finance the rapid modernization is coming from some very formidable players. Some of the new wines were born of powerful partnerships between Chile's wine giants and prestigious foreign wineries: Almaviva, by Viña Concha y Toro and Château Mouton-Rothschild; Seña, by Viña Errazuriz and Robert Mondavi Winery. Others are local endeavors: Montes Alpha 'M' by Montes, a brand formed in 1988 by four Chilean wine veterans; Zavala, by Viña Tarapaca, a winery founded half a century ago by Arturo Zavala. Together, or in competition, the local and international wine players are seeking to propel Chilean winemaking into the 21st century. It manifests itself in several ways.

First, premium vineyards are now sited in cooler areas with poorer soils to stress the vines and achieve longer hang-time and more concentrated flavors. Growers who once generously irrigated with Andes snowmelt - unwittingly watering down their wines - have learned to curb the vine's water supply to further concentrate flavors. Aggressive pruning reduces yields and magnifies flavors.

Casa Lapostolle, south of Santiago, epitomizes the influences of outside experts. The Marnier-Lapostolle family, which owns Château de Sancerre in the Loire Valley, and makes the famous Grand Marnier liqueur, sent daughter Alexandra Marnier-Lapostolle to Chile in the mid-1990s with $12 million to build an ultramodern winery in the middle of a very traditional, old grape-growing area. She settled on Chile's Colchagua wine subregion, forming a partnership with the Chilean Rabat family, which had run a family winery there since 1927, buying acres of vines already planted, some of which today are more than 100 years old. For expert help, she turned to Michel Rolland, owner of Château Le Bon Pasteur in Bordeaux's Pomerol region and consulting winemaker to wineries from France to Argentina.

To the fabulous old vines, Rolland applied modern methods - offering to pay growers the equivalent of six tons per acre if they thin their crops to deliver only four. And the new winery provided temperature-controlled stainless steel fermenting tanks and expensive French oak barrels for aging.

"We provide the equipment, the money and the expertise," Marnier-Lapostolle explains.

Chile's Montes Winery typifies local efforts. Aurelio Montes, winemaker and partner, says Pinochet's departure opened Chile's wine industry to international ideas and outside money - and competition - prompting local growers to reevaluate their traditional methods.

And when the Chilean government in 1995 adopted the Designation of Origin system, Montes says it spurred new efforts by Chile's growers to identify the plots of land - the micro-terroirs - most suited for growing each variety.

"One of the major discoveries is the Apalta microclimate," Montes said at a recent media tasting in New York. "The infertile soil is thick sand and requires mechanical irrigation, which facilitates total control over growth. The southwest orientation means plants are not overexposed to too many hours of sunlight."

In the Apalta Valley, Montes found ideal conditions for growing cabernet sauvignon, merlot, carmenère, syrah, cabernet franc and petit verdot - some of which find their way into his ultrapremium, flagship Montes Alpha 'M.'

"The resulting wines can be full-bodied, filled with sweet, ripe tannins with loads of ripe fruit that is both elegant and appealing," he says.

Chile's winemaking techniques also are undergoing a revolution. Ancient redwood aging vats are being chopped into kindling, replaced by smaller, top-quality French and American oak barrels. Computerized stainless steel fermenting tanks are providing the temperature control to preserve the intense, natural fruitiness of Chile's grapes. And when Casa Lapostolle began shipping its wines in refrigerated containers for the long trip across the equator to the United States, it prompted other Chilean wineries to start following suit.

Those vintners who mounted the offensive have been rewarded with an impressive series of small victories, prompting them to declare that Chile can produce wines as good as any in the world. And that, yes, indeed, they are capable of turning out a Chilean version of a grand cru.

Michael Mondavi, president of California's Robert Mondavi Winery, has partnered with Eduardo Chadwick of Chile's Viña Errazuriz to produce a $55 red table wine called Seña that is now in its second vintage. "I would very proudly put the 1996 Seña in the company of any wine in the world," Mondavi says.

David Williams, a New York investor who has joined with Chilean vineyard owner Ricardo Peña and veteran Chilean Winemaker Ignacio Recabarren in making the new Domus Aurea wine, goes even further. "It's absolutely there now. We don't try to imitate the Bordeaux style or the California style. We allow the wine to express what we think is the Chilean equivalent of a grand cru." Alexandre Marnier-Lapostolle, of Casa Lapostolle, also is optimistic. "There will be a premier cru from Chile," she says, "as high as the quality of Burgundy, Bordeaux or California."

By next year, another ultrapremium Chilean wine will enter the U.S. market. In the Andean foothills near Santiago, Paul Pontallier, director of Château Margaux, and Bruno Prats, retired proprietor of Château Cos d'Estournel, are developing a 48-acre vineyard in an old apricot and walnut orchard; they call it Viña Aquitania. With Winemaker Felix de Solminihac, a third-generation Chilean of French descent, they are growing cabernet sauvignon, merlot and carmenère, and plan to plant petit verdot and syrah. The new wine will be called Domaine Paul Bruno.

Pontallier is not as effusive as some of his peers. "The problem is to know how far you can go," he says. "So far, it's possible to make good wine in Chile; eventually very good wine. But not yet a great wine."

There is a price to pay for all of these quality advancements. While Chile retains its economic advantages over California - lower land costs and cheaper labor - these factors must be balanced against the substantial costs of modernizing and escalating transportation costs. California's cult Cabs are now retailing at $75 to $100 per bottle and more. It was only a matter of time before some of Chile's elite reds would move in the same direction, which raises the question: Will wine aficionados pay up to $60 for wines from Chile?

It's a challenge, but a necessary one, Mondavi says. "It's easy to sell a $60 Bordeaux, or even a $150 one," he says. "But people ask, 'How can you do it from Chile?'" Mondavi says Seña's $55 price tag reflects, in part, the extra costs of making a truly fine wine, even in low-cost Chile. "You're far more selective in the vineyards, you prune more, get less of a crop. You pay the crew a premium to select only the very best, ripest, grape bunches." But it's also a matter of image, he says. "If you price a wine too low, people think it's not very good."

Not everyone agrees. Don Amado sells for $20, and Viña Tarapaca's Zavala for $25.

The cream of the crop

As it happens, the wines profiled here are very good. They're not Bordeaux wines, and they don't try to be. The most successful of them take advantage of Chile's sunny climate to stress sweet fruit and ripe tannins, without giving up the balance and structure needed for aging. In the end, the marketplace will decide if they are worth their hefty price tags.

Almaviva, named for the main character in the opera The Marriage of Figaro, is the achievement of a partnership between Viña Concha y Toro and Baron Philippe de Rothschild. It is 75 percent cabernet sauvignon, 19 percent merlot and 6 percent cabernet franc. The grapes are hand-selected from 100 acres of vineyards in Puente Alto that Concha y Toro uses as a source for its top-of-the-line Don Melchor Cabernet Sauvignon. It is made to the same exacting standards as Mouton-Rothschild's grand cru Bordeaux, says Baroness Philippine de Rothschild, president of the French château that has a $6 million stake in the Chilean venture.

Clos Apalta, 95 percent merlot and 5 percent cabernet sauvignon and carmenère, is made at Casa Lapostolle, located in the Apalta Valley and built in 1996 to the specifications of veteran Pomerol Winemaker Michel Rolland. Marnier-Lapostolle says she has dreamed of producing a wine of this caliber for ten years. The grapes come from 50- to 60-year-old vines on poor, sandy soil - some of the same vines that produce Casa Lapostolle's excellent Cuvée Alexandre Merlot ($16). "We believe very much in old vineyards," Marnier-Lapostolle explains, "and it was this vineyard that made my family decide to invest in Chile."

Domus Aurea, by Viña Quebrada de Macul, is 96 percent cabernet sauvignon and 4 percent merlot and petit verdot, from 30-year-old vines. The fruit is grown on a 35-acre parcel in the Andes foothills bordering the Maipo Valley, east of Santiago. Until Ricardo Peña inherited the winery, his family had sold its grapes to other wineries. "It was the most expensive fruit in the country,'' investor David Williams says. "We decided that, rather than sell it, we'd get the best winemaker in the country and make it ourselves." Recabarren often hears himself referred to as "Chile's best winemaker." In 1986, he won the Gault Millau World Olympics in Paris with a 1984 Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon. In 1997, the Guide to Chilean Wines gave him its first, second and third prizes for the 1995 Chardonnays he had made for three different wineries: Viña Casablanca, Trio by Concha y Toro and Viña La Rose.

Recabarren is frequently asked what makes the Domus Aurea so special. "My answer is always the same," he says, "magnificently situated old, hillside vines; low, low yields; non-interventionist winemaking; and, above all, complete commitment to the highest possible quality, no matter what the commercial consequences."

Named Clos Quebrada de Macul, the hillside vineyard is composed of gravelly rubble and is sited at the base of the mountains, which rise up 45 degrees at the edge of the vineyard. It has near-desert conditions, making the control of irrigation easy. The pruning is rigorous, the winery brand new, the barrels new French oak. "The secret is terroir,'' Williams says. ''Whether you like it or not, I promise you've never tasted anything like it. It just screams site-specificity."

Don Amado, by Vinedos Torreon de Paredes, is 80 percent cabernet sauvignon and 20 percent merlot from old vines. The family-owned winery is situated 75 miles south of Santiago in the Cachapoal Valley, Rapel region. "We are equipped with state-of-the-art technology," General Manager Javier Paredes Legrand says. "French oak barrels are used to ferment or age our reserve wine." The first vintage

of Don Amado was made in 1986, but not released until 1996, the 90th birthday of family patriarch Don Amado. New vintages of the wine are a selection of the best lots from the family estate, aged in new French barrels.

The Los Boldos Grand Cru, another new wine which arrived in U.S. markets in 1999, is 80 percent cabernet sauvignon and 20 percent merlot. Some of the fruit is from vines that date back as far as 1936, from vineyards in Requinoa, in Cachapoal Province, 70 miles south of Santiago. The winery was founded in 1850, and purchased in 1990 by the G.E. Massenez family of France's Alsace region, producers of eaux-de-vie and fruit crèmes.

The Montes Alpha 'M' is made by co-owner/winemaker Aurelio Montes with grapes from La Finca de Apalta estate in the Apalta Valley, Colchagua region. It is 80 percent cabernet sauvignon, 10 percent merlot and 10 percent cabernet franc. Nearly 98 percent of it is exported. "In the last two decades," Montes explains, "the main objectives for winemakers in Chile have been to focus on improving quality rather than volume, and building our export markets."

Seña is made of select grapes from the Aconcagua Valley, 70 miles northeast of Santiago, at the base of the Andes, from the same vineyards that produce Viña Errazuriz's highly regarded Don Maximiano Founder's Reserve. The 1996 Seña is 91 percent cabernet sauvignon and 9 percent carmenère. It is jointly crafted by the Robert Mondavi Family of Wineries' Managing Director Tim Mondavi and Chilean winemakers Irene Paiva and Edward Flaherty. Over the next 10 to 15 years, the partners intend to plant new vineyards and build a new winery in the area.

Zavala, crafted by Viña Tarapaca Winemaker Sergio Correa, is 52 percent cabernet sauvignon, 30 percent merlot and 18 percent syrah, sourced from three vineyards on the Viña Tarapaca Isla de Maipo estate. Correa was among the first to plant syrah in Chile. "As I suspected," he says, "the resulting fruit from the syrah/shiraz vineyard has the typical powerful flavors and structure of the variety grown in France's Rhône Valley and Australia."

Tasting Chile's ultrapremium hybrids

Almaviva, 1997 Red Table Wine, Puente Alto - $60: Vivid purple hue. Complex, shifting aromas of citrus blossom, black raspberry, black pepper and iodine. Velvety, opulent, concentrated black raspberry flavors; lush and intense with huge, ripe tannins and a bitter chocolate-coffee finish. Score: 94

Casa Lapostolle, 1997 Clos Apalta, Apalta Valley, Rapel - $40: Shimmering, intense purple hue. Aromas of licorice and violets. Powerful black rasp-berry and powdered cocoa flavors; silky and smooth with a long, bittersweet chocolate finish. Score: 92

Château Los Boldos, 1996 Grand Cru, Requinoa - $45: Dense, dark purple hue. Aromas of cedar and mint. Big, muscular black pepper and black plum flavors; concentrated, firm, youthful tannins with a long, dry, powdered chocolate finish. Score: 89

Don Amado, 1996 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva Especial, Cachapoal Valley, Rapel - $20: Limpid purple hue. Sweet cherry blossom and cedar aromas. Opulent, intense, black cherry flavors; generous, ripe tannins and a long, lean, fruit-infused finish. Score: 91

Domus Aurea, 1996 Viña Quebrada de Macul - $40: Transparent, deep ruby hue. Complex aromas of oak, mint, bacon fat and mulberry. Intense black plum and menthol flavors; medium-bodied and silky with drying tannins and a bittersweet mocha note in the finish. Score: 89

Montes Alpha, 1997 'M,' Santa Cruz (Colchagua) - $60: Deep ruby hue. Sweet oak and black cherry aromas. Sweet, juicy red plum flavors; lively acid, firm tannins and medium body with a dark chocolate finish. Score: 89

Seña, 1996 Red Table Wine, Aconcagua Valley - $55: Vivid violet hue. Intense, shifting aromas of sweet cedar and violets. Concentrated, lively flavors of sweet black plum and caramel; silky and smooth, excellent balance with a long, fruity finish. Score: 92

Viña Tarapaca, 1997 Zavala, Maipo Valley - $25: Grape-purple hue. Black cherry, oak and earth aromas. Intense, spicy black cherry and black plum flavors with firm tannins and a very dry, chocolatey finish. Score: 90

Tomorrow's Mouton?

How far has Chile come? A long way. And, thanks to its combination of excellent terroir, new money and expertise, it has done so in a shorter time than most other countries. Is there a grand cru yet? It would be difficult to anoint one without more years of demonstrating not just excellent quality, but also consistency. Mondavi doesn't entirely disagree. "If you look just at the wine [Seña] itself, it deserves to be in that company. If you look at the image, we still have a long way to go to win credibility."

BuyLine Panelist Fred Tasker writes a weekly wine column for The Miami Herald that is syndicated by Knight Ridder, Inc.

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http://www.pittsburghlive.com/x/pittsburghtrib/s_273509.html

The grape that France forgot now thrives in Chile
Buzz up!By Dave DeSimone, FOR THE TRIBUNE-REVIEW
Wednesday, November 17, 2004


When it comes to consumer acceptance of wines, the name of the grape is important.
Merlot is a good example. It generally is quite fruity and, when well made, delivers good depth of flavor and adequate structure. In addition, consumers can easily pronounce the name -- merlot can be requested with ease and confidence.

Then there is the carménère grape. It is capable of producing juicy, fruity red wines similar to high-quality merlots. For many years, carménère (pronounced car-men-EHR) wines from Chile mistakenly were thought to be made from merlot grapes. In 1994, however, the French ampelographist Jean Michel Bourisiquot unraveled the confusion.

Ampelography is the study and classification of grape varieties.

Carménère is a member of the cabernet/merlot family. The grape's name refers to the deep crimson color of its skins and the hue of the vine's leaves in late autumn.

The carménère saga began in the 1850s, when it was first planted in Chile. The grape cuttings came from Bordeaux, France.

For years in France, carmenet was harvested en masse with other traditional Bordelaise grapes, such as cabernet franc, merlot, malbec and petite verdot. The combination created magnificent red blends that to this day dazzle wine lovers worldwide.

Over the decades, however, carménère vines were grubbed out in Bordeaux because the climate and soils were just not right for the variety. Today, carménère is all but forgotten in France.

In Chile, however, carménère has found a home. The combination of soil and climate, plus Chile's unique immunity to the heartless root louse called phylloxera, has allowed carménère to flourish.

At first, the grape was harvested in Chile along with cabernet sauvignon and the other familiar Bordeaux varieties -- winemakers did not think to market it separately.

The picture changed when Bourisiquot completed his grape sleuthing. Since then, the winemakers at Chile's premier winery, Concha y Toro, and other wineries have recognized carménère's potential as the nation's signature grape.

The results have been impressive. Concha y Toro and its affiliated brands offer a full range of carménère wines.

Other wineries have followed suit to provide consumers with a nice range of choices. Because carménère is not as well known as merlot, there is less demand for it, meaning better prices for consumers.

A fun way to discover carmenere is to taste it blind with your favorite merlot. You might find the results pleasantly surprising.

Start with the following:


2003 Frontera Carménère, Valle Central, Chile (9060, 1.5 liters; on sale $7.99): The wine offers straightforward, fruity aromas of plums with a bit of spice leading to fruity, lip-smacking plum flavors with a hint of bell pepper in a light texture through a soft, fruity finish. It's a great value for holiday parties. Highly recommended.

2002 Casa Julia Carménère, Maipo Valley, Chile (Specialty 28855, $8.99): The wine opens with pleasant plum and spice aromas followed by pure, fruity flavors of plums with chocolate accents layered in a medium body with well-balanced tannins. Try it with Italian sweet sausage in a red sauce with peppers. Recommended.

2003 Casillero del Diablo Carménère, Rapel Valley, Chile (4051, on sale $8.99): This blend of 85 percent carmenere, 10 percent cabernet sauvignon and 5 percent syrah has a dark purple color and enticing, fruity aromas of plums, blackberries and hints of mocha followed by lush fruity flavors of ripe plums, spices and chocolate nuances from American oak barrel aging. It has a medium body, soft tannins and a pleasant, fruity finish. Recommended.

2002 Terrunyo Carménère, Cachapoal Valley, Chile (Specialty 28613, $22.99): A blend of 85 percent carmenere, 10 percent cabernet sauvignon, 3 percent cabernet franc and 2 percent merlot, this deep purple wine opens to concentrated aromas of plums and spicy nuances from French oak barrel aging to highlight intense flavors of plums and currants with chocolate hints. The wine is framed with silky tannins and a big, full flavored fruity finish. Recommended.
Best buy

Thanks to the Chairman's Selection program of the Pennsylvania Liquor Control Board, consumers have a great price on a classy bubbly:

1997 Domaine Carneros by Taittinger, Le Rêve Brut, Carneros, Calif. (On sale in specialty stores, $29.99): This ultra-elegant California sparkling wine has the élan of true Champagne with a classy California style all its own. The beads of bubbles are very fine and persistent, and the aromas of citrus and apples accented by toasty yeast smells lead to refined, creamy flavors of citrus and baked apples balanced with refreshing acidity through a frothy, elegant finish. Buy this little gem in quantity while it lasts. Highly recommended.
 

South American Wines - An Independent Guide to the some of the Best Wines from Peru, Argentina & Chile.

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